Forster Case Trimmers | Primers | Lead | Videos | Reload Shop
Reloading PrimerReloading primer is an important part of the overall system of how and why a gun (either shotgun, handgun or automatic gun for that matter) works. Without everything being worked out perfectly, a bullet would never shoot out of a gun. A gun, by the way, can fire a bullet anywhere from 600 to 2500 feet per second—enough power to take down a flying duck or trotting moose. At any rate, one of the most important parts to this whole gun system is the primer, located at the head of the bullet. Let’s get some simple facts down before we get into some history about reloading primer. The modern cartridge has essentially five main parts. These parts all work together to provide one uniform function—to fire a bullet out of a gun. Depending on how you look at the cartridge, the head is referred to as the rim; the primer is located on the back, flat part of the rim. The firing pin of the gun literally smashes the primer, causing an ignition into the powder of the bullet—the propellant or powder charge. This powder is stored in the bullet case or casing. The actual bullet then is the piece of metal at the tip that is propelled out of the gun. These five parts form the cartridge, designed to work cohesively together.
There are four main primer brands to consider when reloading primers. These include but may not be limited to CCI, Federal, Remington, and Winchester. If you’re going to re-load primers yourself, there are some facts to keep in mind. One of the most important but often overlooked rules of thumb is to set the primers a little under the flush mark with the head of the cartridge. Doing this guarantees that the little anvil is compressed into the priming compound properly. If you want to be sure not to have any accidents or misfires, be sure to follow the rules. The proper distance is about .005” under the said flush mark. You must be able to work with exact measurements to re-load primers properly. Wear ear and eye protection always. Some primers are said to be hotter than others, but this really depends on what you’re shooting, with variance attributed to temperature, wind velocity, angles and so forth. All sorts of tests have been done to check out speed and impact and so forth. The best advice is to follow the manual and use what it suggests. This can save you both time and money in the long run if you plan on reloading primers someday yourself. The first part of the cartridge, the primer, is essentially the most important. If the anvil or firing pin falls and does not cause the spark or ignition, the bullet will not fire. In the US, and other parts of the world, the reloading primer uses the design of Edward Boxer, aptly called the Boxer. The Boxer works like a cup, holding the priming compound, with an anvil resting lightly on the priming pellet. The other primer, ones used in Europe, is fashioned after Hiram Berdan. The Berdan primer functions in much the same way minus the anvil. The Berdan primer is difficult if not impossible to reload. The Boxer type is gathering more fame and consumers across the board, even in Europe. The ironic point to be made here is that Mr. Boxer was a European and Mr. Berdan was an American, the patent of each becoming more popular across opposite continents.
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US $544.95
